송상훈 Sang-hun Song , 김현영 Hyun Young Kim , 손성길 Seong Gil Son

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Abstract

Oil adsorption during hair or body washing is responsible for the hair conditioning. In this study, we established a method to extract oil from a substrate, and to determine amount of adsorbed oil upon substrate using a conventional absorption spectroscopy. We controlled the mole fraction of a surfactant in a mixture of anionic and amphoteric surfactants because that it induces the coacervate that regulates amount of adsorbed oil through the alteration of oil viscosity. Based on this, we established the optimized condition for adsorption and extraction for oil. UV absorbance were employed to estimate the amount of adsorbed oil using optical absorbance after extraction via adsorption. The estimation was confirmed by comparing with a mass analysis in HPLC and an adhesive energy in AFM. It has been proved that this method can be applied to all cases of oil adsorption from the results with various cationic polymers and a complex system of the polymers which regulate the oil adsorption.

Key Words

oil delivery, adsorption, UV absorption

홍혜진 Hye Jin Hong , 고하나 Ha Na Ko , 이남호 Nam Ho Lee

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Abstract

In this study Anti-inflammatory activity was investigated for the extract of Prunus pendula for. ascendens (Makino) Ohwi by monitoring nitric oxide (NO) production in LPS-stimulated RAW 264.7 murine macrophage cells. The P. pendula ethyl acetate (EtOAc) fraction showed to decrease the NO synthesis by 76.3% at 100 μg/mL concentration. The inhibition occurred in a dose-dependent manner without causing cell toxicity. The EtOAc fraction also inhibited the production of PGE2, IL-1β, IL-6　and expression of iNOS, COX-2 protein in dose-dependent manner. From the phytochemical study to isolate the active constituents, five known compounds were identified, which are ursolic acid (1), prunasin (2), methyl p-coumarate (3), kaempferol (4), astragalin (5). All of the compounds 1 - 5 were isolated for the first time from the P. pendula. Among the isolates, the flavonoids 4 and 5 were verified to inhibit NO production with high efficiency. These results suggested that extract of P. pendula leaves could be useful as anti-inflammatory agents in pharmaceutical or cosmetic applications.

Key Words

Prunus pendula for. ascendens (Makino) Ohwi, nitric oxide production, RAW 264.7, anti-inflammatory

이용직 Yongjik Lee , 남개원 Gaewon Nam

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Abstract

Carbonylated proteins (CPs) are synthesized by the chemical reaction of basic amino acid residues in proteins with aldehyde compounds yielded by lipid peroxidation. CPs are excited by a range of light from UVA to blue light, and resulted in the generation of superoxide anion radicals (^·O₂^-) by photosensitizing reaction. Then, they CPs induce new protein carbonylation in stratum corneum through ROS generation. Furthermore, the superoxide anion radicals produce CPs in the stratum corneum (SC) through lipid peroxidation and finally affects skin conditions including color and moisture functions. The purpose of this study was to investigate the relationship between the production of stratum corneum carbonylated protein (SCCP) and the skin elasticity. 46 healthy female Koream at the ages of 30 ∼ 50 years old were participated in this study for 8 weeks. The skin test was experiment conducted into two groups; placebo group (N = 23) used cream that did not contain active ingredients, and the other group (N = 23) used cream containing the elasticity improving ingredients. Test areas were the crow ‘s feet and the cheek. Various non-invasive methods were carried out to measure biophysical parameters on human skin indicating that dermis density and skin wrinkle were measured by using DUB scanner and Primos premium, respectively. Skin elasticity were measured using dermal torque meter (DTM310) and balistometer (BLS780). SCCP was assessed in a simple and non-invasive method using skin surface biopsy on the cheek of the subject. The amount of SCCP was determined using image analysis. All measurements were taken at 0, 4 and 8 8week. Results revealed that the amount of CP in SC was reduced when the skin wrinkle and skin elasticity related parameters were improved. This indicates that the correlation between the elasticity improvement and the amount of CP can be used as a anti-aging indicator and applicable to the skin clinical test for the measurement of skin aging in the future.

Key Words

stratum corneum (SC), carbonylated protein(CP), skin aging, reactive oxygen species (ROS)

최민성 Minsung Choi , 조형진 Hyeongjin Cho , 송경희 Kyunghee Song , 송승진 Seungjin Song , 강내규 Nae-gye Kang , 박선규 Sun-gyoo Park

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Abstract

This study is investigated sunscreen formulation that enhances UV absorption efficiency by UV light. Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) is one of the most common UV filters. Many studies have been conducted about photostability of OMC. It is well known that under the UV exposure, trans-OMC could turn to cis-OMC, or produce various photoproducts including its dimers. Those chemical structure changes were understood as the reason of a decrease in UV absorption efficiency upon UV exposure. However, it was found that OMC and isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate (IMC) could even enhance its UV absorption efficiency when it was exposed to UV light in an environment similar to actual use. In order to develop sunscreen formulation that enhances UV absorption efficiency by UV light, emollient with high polarity and compatibility should be avoided from the formular. Those emollient seemed to prevent OMC or IMC from producing photoproducts under UV light. Finally, a sunscreen formulation (UV sensing SPF boosting formular) enhancing UV absorption efficiency by UV was developed by the UV activated SPF boosting technology, and the effect of the sunscreen was evaluated. in vitro SPF of the sunscreen was increased from 50.69 to 72.33 when it was exposed to UV light and its in vivo SPF (53.7) was 56.10% higher than that of the control sunscreen (below 34.4).

Key Words

ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (OMC), isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate (IMC), photoproduct, photostability, SPF boosting

배준태 Jun-tae Bae , 이청희 Chung-hee Lee , 이근수 Geun-soo Lee , 김진화 Jin-hwa Kim , 홍진태 Jin-tae Hong

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Abstract

Ergothioneine has been known as an excellent antioxidant and a cellular protector against oxidative damage in vivo. In the present study, ergothioneine was demonstrated to possess antioxidant and anti-glycation activities. The radical scavenging activity of ergothioneine enhanced the viability of human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) exposed to ultraviolet (UV) light. The UVA irradiation increased the proportion of senescence-associated β-galactosidase (SA-β-gal) positive cells in comparison with the normal control group. The treatment of UVA-irradiated HDFs with ergothioneine decreased the level of SA-b-gal (by approximately 45% at an ergothioneine concentration of 400 μM) compared with the UVA-irradiated HDFs. We also found that ergothioneine inhibited production of glyceraldehyde-derived advanced glycation endproducts (AGEs) in a concentration-dependent manner. The ergothioneine educed carboxymethyl-lysine (CML) expression in comparison to the glyoxal treatment. In addition, in the Western blot analysis, treatment of glyoxal-stimulated HDFs with ergothioneine resulted in a dose-dependent decrease in the expression level of the receptor for AGE (RAGE). These results suggest that ergothioneine may have potent anti-aging effects and could be used as a cosmetic material against cellular accumulation of AGEs.

Key Words

ergothioneine, advanced glycation end products, anti-glycation, antioxidant, anti-aging

손광희 Kwang-hee Son , 김영국 Young Kook Kim , 최상호 Sangho Choi , 장지운 Zhiyun Zhang , 신동하 Dong-ha Shin , 이종석 Jong Suk Lee , 박호용 Ho-yong Park

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Abstract

In this study, the antioxidative and inhibitory activity of tyrosinase and collagenase for the solvent extract and silica column fractions of Artocarpus nitidus were evaluated. The activities were quantified using the 4 parameter logistic. LC/MS analysis showed that the major component of the fractions was polyphenol and the total polyphenol content of the extract was 48.1 ± 2.6 mg GAE/g. The radical scavenging activities (SC₅₀) for 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl of the extract, fraction-1 and fraction-2 were 16.7, 42.0 and 10.1 μg/mL, respectively. The value for fraction-2 was the closest to ascorbic acid (1.5 μg/mL). The tyrosinase inhibitory activity of the extracts and the fractions showed IC₅₀ of 64.9, 0.9 and 1.2 μg/mL, respectively, and overall activity was higher than that of kojic acid (7.4 μg/mL) and arbutin (119.0 μg/mL). In the experiment by zebrafish embryo, the whitening activity of fraction-2 (27.5%) was higher than that of kojic acid (18.6%), and there was no adverse effect up to 500 μg/mL of fraction-2. For the collagenase inhibitory activity, the samples showed IC₅₀ of 139.8, 20.6, and 16.8 μg/mL, respectively, which were competitive to 1, 10-Phenanthroline (55.4 μg/mL). The extract and fraction-2 showed IC₅₀ of 61.8 and 67.1 μg/mL for elastase. These results suggest that A. nitidus extract can be used as a cosmetic material useful for antioxidant, whitening, and prevention of skin aging without adverse effects.

Key Words

antioxidant, polyphenol, collagenase inhibition, tyrosinase inhibition, Artocarpus nitidus

강진선 Jin Sun Kang , 나하나 Ha Na La , 박선욱 Sun Uk Bak , 엄효정 Hyo Jung Eom , 이병규 Byung Kyu Lee , 신희제 Hee Je Shin

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Abstract

The epidermal growth factor (EGF) has a intrinsic function of inducing growth and proliferation of cells through interacting with cell membrane receptors in human epidermis and dermis layer. These functions of EGF are used as a main ingredient for wound healing medicines and anti-aging cosmetics. As a cosmetic ingredient, the EGF has a problem in exhibiting its natural efficacy due to the lack of the ability to penetrate through the stratum corneum, which is known as the skin barrier. In this study, a recombinant human epidermal growth factor (MTD₁₅₁-EGF) fused with the macromolecule transduction domain (MTD)₁₅₁ with the skin penetration ability was developed to improve the skin penetration efficiency of the EGF. Expression of MTD₁₅₁-EGF was performed in E. coli transformed with a vector encoding the MTD₁₅₁-EGF gene and then purified. The purified MTD₁₅₁-EGF was evaluated using cell proliferation assay, cytotoxicity test and skin penetration test by franz diffusion cell assay and artificial skin. Cell proliferation activity of MTD₁₅₁-EGF purified to high purity of 99% or above was equivalent to the EGF or better, and cytotoxicity was not observed. In addition, the MTD₁₅₁-EGF showed an excellent penetration efficiency compared to the EGF in the skin penetration test with EGF and MTD₁₅₁-EGF labeled by FITC in an artificial skin penetration model. Based on the quantitative analysis of the penetrating substance using franz diffusion cell assay, the amount of penetration was about 16 times more than that of EGF. These results can be regarded as an effective alternative to improve the existing physical transdermal penetration method related to the use of various active ingredients for cosmetics.

Key Words

epidermal growth factor, MTD-EGF, recombinant human EGF, macromolecule transduction domain, MTD

송상훈 Sang-hun Song , 최원경 Wonkyung Choi , 박현섭 Hyunsub Park , 임병택 Byung Tack Lim , 박경란 Kyoung Ran Park , 김영현 Younghyun Kim , 박수진 Sujin Park , 손성길 Seong Kil Son , 이상민 Sang-min Lee , 강내규 Nae-gyu Kang

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Abstract

Human tissue undergoes aging by the oxidant damage via structural change and its physical properties. The skin aging process is well known and many evaluations have been conducted. However, studies on hair aging were relatively few and thus care for aging hair is difficult. This study aims to fabricate an aging hair and identify anti-aging effect with known ingredient in anti-aging. First of all, physical properties of aging hair of age 60s by physiologically intrinsic factors were compared to those of the hair made by various extrinsic factors such as several chemical reactions and iteration numbers of the treatments. The extrinsic aging hair of this study relates to the less amount of lipid and to the hair of perm treated once accordingly, wherein several physical properties, preferably comprise roughness and tensile strength, present a novel concept of the intrinsic aging hair. The penetration of peptide into the aging hair was leading the extrinsic hair towards more structurally directed a younger hair. In addition to the structural change, the penetration of the peptide enhanced texture and tensile strength of the aging hair. These patterns have been also found in addition of propolis. For the first time, these qualitative studies exhibit that indeed our extrinsic aging hair well describes the anti-aging efficacy as a receptor for a cross-linker and the ingredients of human hair.

Key Words

anti-aging, carbodiimide reaciton, human hair, propolis, shampoo

이지현 Ji Hyun Lee , 홍성윤 Sung Yun Hong , 이진용 Jin Yong Lee , 안소연 So Youn An , 이효진 Hyo Jin Lee , 김성용 Sung Yong Kim , 이준배 Jun Bae Lee , 김진웅 Jin Woong Kim , 신경희 Kyounghee Shin

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Abstract

This study reports water-resistant oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion-based sunscreening formulations prepared using a poly(ethylene glycol)-poly(ε-caprolactone)-poly(ethylene glycol) (PEG-PCL-PEG) triblock polymeric surfactant. As a result of a variety of outdoor recreational activities such as swimming and hiking, consumer needs for development of advanced water-resistant sunscreen formulations are increasing. Water-resistant sunscreens are mostly based on water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions, because they should not be wiped off by water or sweat. However, the W/O emulsion formulations have a disadvantage in that the feeling of use is oily and difficult to remove. On the other hand, the O/W emulsion formulations are excellent in achieving the better skin feel as well as the easier removal. However, it is difficult to provide the O/W emulsion formulations with the water-repelling performance, since re-emulsification likely occurs upon getting touch with water. To solve this problem, this study proposes a O/W emulsion-based sunscreen formulation, a triblock polymeric surfactant having relatively high interfacial tension HLB value (~ 10). This allows the sunscreen formulations to exhibit the improved water repellence function by preventing their re-emulsification. The sunscreen formation system prepared in this study would be useful for diversification of functional sunscreen products, taking advantages of its excellent emulsion stability, UV protection performance, long lasting water-resistant function and selective cleansing effect with only foam cleanser.

Key Words

triblock copolymer surfactant, water-resistant sunscreen, interfacial tension, re-emulsification, O/W emulsion

김대현 Daehyun Kim , 배우리 Woo Ri Bae , 김윤선 Yun-sun Kim , 신동원 Dong-won Shin , 박선규 Sun-gyoo Park , 강내규 Nae-gyu Kang

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Abstract

Ultraviolet rays (UV) cause photoaging by inducing skin photodamages such as erythema and sunburn. Silymarin is a mixture of antioxidant polyphenols extracted from Silybum marianum fruit (S. m), which is known as milk thistle. It is known to protect skin tissues from UV treatment and antioxidant effects. In this study, we aimed to identify the photoprotective effects of S. m extract, which has silymarin in the epidermis layer of the skin. We found that the extract can function as a UV filter, so it can reduce DNA damage by UV treatment. Especially, we found that, in the stratum corneum, the extract can suppress the protein carbonylarion and DNA damages caused by suberythemal dose of UV treatment which does not induce erythema in the skin. UV treatment also increased protein carbonylation levels in the stratum corneum by oxidation, but it was prevented by applying the extract. The extract can absorb UV with minimal phototoxicity. Together, our study suggests that S. m extract can be used as a photo-protective ingredient to avoid photoaging of the skin.

Key Words

Silybum marianum extract, photoprotection, DNA damage, protein carbonylation